Warming up refers to a preparatory phase at the beginning of an exercise session. Warming up generally involves a period of low-impact exercise regimes which prepare the body for the more strenuous aspects of the sporting activity. Warming up is an important aspect of exercise in reducing the risk of injury that would possibly happen if over stretching occurred, without the person being physically warmed up and prepared for the exercise.

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Cooling down refers to a short period at the end of an exercise session. The cooling down phase, again, tends to involve a short period of low-impact exercise which gradually returns the body to its ‘resting state’. The cooling down phase is believed to reduce the risk of muscular soreness which may occur the day after an exercise session, and reduce the risk of fainting or collapse after such a session.

The Warming Up Session

An exercise session should always commence with a period of warm up. In some cases it may take the form of a series of specially designed preparatory exercise, whilst in other sessions it will simply involve performing the activity at a low density before increasing the intensity to the desired level. The warming up period is important for the following reasons:

• It gets the body ready for the physcal exertion that follows. This optimises the physical condition, enabling the body to cope more easily with the activity. It also enables the athlete to get the most benefit from the session.
• If the warm-up session has specific movements relating to the sporting activity the muscles can be re-educated in preparation for the coming activities.
• It reduces the risk of injury (cold muscles do not stretch very easily) and it reduces the risk of premature fatigue which can occur if the cardiovascular system is unprepared for strenuous activity.
• It prepares cardiac function for increased activity and reduces the risk of stress being placed on the heart.

A typical warm-up may involve some ‘loosening exercises’ followed by a few minutes of low-impact aerobic activity and then a series of stretching exercises. This may last for approximately five to fifteen minutes depending upon the intensity of the session which follows. Loosening exercises at the start of the warm up may include activities such as ‘stretching’ and ‘running on the spot’. These are gentle activities which begin to prepare the body for exercise and are especially important if the athlete has been inactive for a while.

The aerobic exercise may involve activities such as cycling on an exercise cycle. This has the effect of increasing the heart rate, diverting blood to the exercising muscles and raising the overall temperature of the muscles.

Stretching exercises provide the final phase of warm up and ensure that the muscles and tendons are prepared for the exercise. An important reason for stretching exercises is to prevent the muscles and tendons from being overstretched during the session. Such a warm up will also prepare the joints for physical activity.

The Effects of Warm Up on the Body are:

• Cold muscle, tendons and connectinve tissue do not stretch very easily. Stretching without a warm-up is therefore unlikely to produce the best effects. Warming up also relaxes the body and muscle which further allows them to be stretched effectively. It is also believed that cold muscles and tendons are more prone to damage since they are more likely to tear when cold.
• A warm-up increases the heart rate gradually, and aerobic exercise prepares the heart and cardiovascular system, together with the muscles, gradually, for exercise.
• A warm-up also causes the blood to be diverted to the exercising muscles. This is achieved by getting the blood vessels that supply the muscles being used, to dilate. This extra blood is diverted from areas of the body not as important for exercising, such as the gut.
• Exercising, without warming up, may cause the muscles to work without an adequate oxygen supply. This forces them to use anaerobic processes to supplement their production of Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP). As a consequence, lactic acid accumulates and the muscles may become prematurely fatigued.

A warm-up increases the temperature of the body. This increase in temperature facilitates and speeds up many of the processes associated with exercise metabolism. It increases the rate of nerve impulse transmission, the rate of oxygen delivery to the muscles and the speed of the reactions associated with the production of ATP. Therefore, in this context, a warm up may be said to optimise the condition of the body.

Cooling Down

A cool-down involves a short period at the end of an exercise session during which the physical activity of the body is gradually reduced to almost its resting level. A cool-down therefore often involves a period of low-impact aerobic exercise which is gradually reduced, followed by a few gentle stretching exercises. This has a number of effects.

The gentle aerobic activity helps to get rid of any metabolic waste products which may have accumulated during the exercise session. The benefits of an active recovery are believed to be related to the muscles continuing to receive a more extensive supply of oxygenated blood, which will also assist with the removal of metabolic waste products.

During exercise the blood is being pumped around the body by the action of the heart. However, the blood is assisted in its return to the heart via the venous system and muscular contraction. If an athlete stops exercising suddenly, the heart continues to beat fast, sending blood around the body, but, because the exercise has ceased, the blood is no longer assisted in its return to the heart. It is suggested that this is one of the reasons why people sometimes feel faint after exercise. During a cool-down, the heart rate is gradually lowered to its resting level and the venous return continues to be assisted by the actively contracting muscles, thereby preventing this problem.

After exercising, and following the cool-down period, the athlete’s heart will still need a period of time to settle back down to its full resting rate but should be within 30 beats of what it was before the exercise session started. This will, of course, be influenced by the overall physical condition of the individual. It may also be influenced by the content of the session, with more demanding sessions requiring a more extensive cool-down. The cooling down period also provides an opportunity for the inclusion of additional stretching exercises, which may be desirable especially if they were not included as part of the main session. The inclusion of stretching exercises within the cool-down period not only helps to gradually lower the activity level of the body at the end of the session, but it may also prevent stiffness the following day.

The cool-down period is also likely to take place when the body is warm, making the muscles more receptive to stretching. The most effective stretching can therefore be performed at this time.

The Importance of Warming Up and Cooling Down

For more information contact the author at http://www.seriousaboutsport.co.uk

The word “bonnell” itself means a kind of “spring” used in spring mattresses. These mattresses are manufactured using springs units. Steel springs are attached in bonnell spring mattress to each other with helical wire which gives strong spring structure. The better quality of mattresses provides better stability and flexibility which gives rise to the demand of the product globally for bedding products. Therefore right choice of mattress benefits you with perfect sleep system to support your spine cord of your body.

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Bonnell Spring Mattress provides wide array of its unique features that are as follows:

• Most comfortable and supportive mattress.
• These mattresses are made by using finest raw material & ensuring extra support & comfort needed to the body.
• The number of spring used in making of the mattress makes the mattress more spung and comfortable.
• It provides enough room for free and easy movement.
• Most durable mattresses are offered in this industry.
• These mattress are engineered by skilled engineers and creative artisans.

Types of Bonnell Spring Mattress are as follows :

Latex Spring Mattress: These mattresses are the most comfortable mattress that provides unsound and undisturbed sleep. These mattresses are made of various layers of natural latex that provides the ultimate softness to the mattress. Latex mattresses are the best mattress you will ever sleep on. Even these mattresses are recommended by Orthopedic Surgeons.

Firm Spring Mattress: The term “Firm” generally means which cannot be pressed easily. These firm mattress are especially made for the ones who want a firm surface to sleep. These mattresses benefits you in the following ways:

• It Prevents back pain.
• It provides firm support to your body.
• It is more durable as compared to other mattress for it ensures air circulation valve.
• it provides maximum level of comfort & health.

These mattresses includes the following materials to make ever best Mattresses. Bonnel spring mattress is the most luxurious for any kind of bedding and furnishings of the bedroom complementing other ambiances where mattress are required like hotels, hospital, Resorts, Health care centers, etc.

“Best choice of the mattresses gives proper sleep benefiting you with better health & comfort.”

Bonnell Spring Mattress

For more details visit: http://www.spring-mattresses.com

Then reality hits. You have an idea of the perfect hand-knit blanket but a few ‘minor details’ are missing — like what size this blanket should be. This is a good question and unless you have a great deal of experience with knitting or babies or both, you’re probably at a loss as to what to do next.

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Blanket Sizes

When it comes to baby blankets, there are three main sizes — crib blankets, swaddling blankets, and receiving blankets. You may not have known it, but each of these has a specific purpose.

· Crib Blankets — These blankets do exactly what the name says — they are for the crib. Think of this blanket as a bedspread for the baby crib. This blanket is usually around 36″ x 52″ and while it’s perfect for making the crib look nice and keeping an older baby warm at night, it is too big to swaddle a small baby. If you want to knit a blanket to decorate the baby’s room, this is it.

· Swaddling Blankets — This blanket is the small blanket you use when the baby first comes home from the hospital. Usually lightweight, it is about 30″ square and is perfect to wrap tightly around a baby to give them that ‘in the womb’ feeling. This is a good blanket to swaddle a baby and give her a sense of security when putting her down for a nap.

· Receiving Blankets — If you want to get the most use possible, knit a blanket, knit a receiving blanket that is 34″ x 36″ is perfect. This size is works best because it’s small enough to snuggle a small baby but also perfect for the baby to carry around when he reaches toddler age. This size works great in baby carriers and car seats and is pretty much an all-purpose blanket.

Now that you know the standard sizes, all you have to do is decide on the baby blanket that best suits your needs. Once you’ve made that decision, choose your favorite pattern, buy your yarn and get those knitting needles clicking.

Baby Blanket Knitting Projects – Standard Baby Blanket Sizes

For more tips to help you knit the perfect baby blanket and free baby blanket knitting patterns to get you started, visit http://www.KnittingforCharity.org.

Prior to taking any other step regarding crate soiling, be certain that a medical issue is not at the root of the problem. In a mature dog, an unprecedented spate of crate soiling is most likely caused by some kind of physical ailment. Many different conditions can cause incontinence, and your veterinarian should reliably be able to identify any of them. Consult your vet before undertaking any other measures.

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Once medical causes are eliminated as a possibility, you can begin to investigate other possible causes. To begin, make sure that your dog does not have extra room in its dog crate. Given enough space, dogs will make one end of their crate a “bathroom” and the other the “bedroom”, rather than just “holding it”. If there is in fact too much space in the crate, insert a divider of some kind to reduce the amount of space.

Remember that once a piece of bedding or the like has been soiled by urine or feces, the scent will linger. Even if you can’t smell it any more, your dog probably can, and that smell will act as a constant reminder that this is a good place to eliminate. Always clean any soiled item as thoroughly as you can- an enzyme-based cleaner is a good method, as is a white vinegar solution.

Next, take a moment to examine the daily routine you’ve set for your dog. Dogs need consistency in their day-to-day pattern of sleep, exercise, and feeding. If crate soiling is occurring regularly, you may not be giving enough time between feeding times and crating periods for the dog to pass waste. In the case of puppies, their bladders are still quite small, and they physically cannot “hold it” for very long at a time. Your puppy’s age, in months, plus one equals the approximate time in hours that they can last with a full bladder. For example, a three month-old puppy can hold it for about four hours at a time. Throughout puppyhood, you’ll need to offer bathroom breaks more often to prevent them from becoming habituated to soiling themselves. To help make sure that your dog eliminates before bedding down for the night, take them out for a quick run. The exercise will not only help them sleep better, but will encourage them to pass waste.

Next, look to diet. What goes in must come out, and if the dog’s diet is inappropriate, it may suffer from excretory malfunctions. An overly rich, high-protein diet can cause diarrhea. If stools are not runny, but seem excessive, then the dog food you are using may have a high proportion of indigestible filler material. Both of these factors can contribute to crate soiling. Finally, feeding too soon before crating- less than two hours- means the dog doesn’t have a chance to pass waste. Try adjusting your dog’s diet, and see if this reduces the problem.

As stated before, dogs have a certain natural tendency toward cleanliness. If they are soiling themselves, there is an imbalance of some kind present in their environment. Keep making small, gradual adjustments to routines, until you see improvement. Always give lavish praise for appropriate defecation and urination, and never scold for bad behavior after the fact. With these guidelines in mind, you can make sure your dog’s crate is a clean, happy place.

Crate Soiling

When it comes to providing a comfortable place for your dog to call home nothing beats a Soft Dog Crate. They are just as sturdy and dependable as traditional metal and plastic crates. Soft Dog Crates have the added benefit of being better ventilated, increased visibility, and Soft Dog Crates are extremely portable. When it comes to your Dog Supplies nothing beats a Soft Dog Crate.

Cause #1 – Food And Drink

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Food and drink, particularly during the evening hours, can have a profound effect on the ability of an individual to fall asleep at night. Common reasons include eating foods with large amounts of either proteins (for example meats) or processed sugars (cakes, candy bars) later in the day. Conversely, carbohydrate-rich foods in moderation at night can often aid sound sleep. These often contain ‘tryptophan’ a substance which triggers the brain to produce sleep-inducing chemicals. Drinks containing caffeine such as coffee and some sodas can have a profound effect on your ability to fall asleep, these should be avoided late in the day where possible.

Cause #2 – Exercise And Lifestyle Choices

Healthy lifestyle choices and regular exercise are great methods of assuring yourself a successful nights rest. However, it is possible that exercise can have the opposite effect – if this is too close to your bed-time. Exercising actually releases stimulating brain chemicals which may prevent sleep onset. Ensuring that you complete any exercise 3 hours before bed will avoid any issues.

Cause #3 – Your Sleeping Environment

This is a complex area and potentially involves many interacting factors including temperature, noise and the comfort of your bedding. A common cause of insomnia symptoms is not having enough natural space to twist and turn in the night. Blocks or objects in your bed can cause disruption to the natural sleeping cycle that can have lasting effects into the next day. The ideal sleeping environment is cool, dark, quiet and has comfortable bedding and pillows.

Cause #4 – The Contrary Effects Of Alcohol

Alcohol is actually a sedative, this will relax you and is considered an aid to falling asleep at night. However, this substance has a negative overall effect and can actually be a common cause of reported sleep disorders. The reason is that the sleep you get after drinking alcohol is of lower quality than without. This can leave you tired the next day, which leads to compensatory behaviors including higher caffeine intake and napping. Both of these then lead to sleeping problems – starting a ‘vicious circle’ of behavior which is detrimental to quality sleep.

Cause #5 – Anxiety, Stress And Worry

Financial, family and work worries can often lead to sleeping problems. The effects of this can work in various ways, leading to stress symptoms which change your brain-chemistry or just leading to a ‘busy mind’ at night which stops you falling asleep. The main treatment of these psychologically induced insomnia symptoms is to address the underlying causes. Where this is not immediately possible then keeping a notepad by your bed side and jotting down those worries can go a long way towards helping.

What Causes Insomnia? 5 Reasons You Can Not Sleep at Night

For comprehensive yet clear guides to common sleep disorders and the most effective natural treatments, check our the quality articles at: Cures For Sleeping Problems

• Hardware stores, supermarkets and camping outlets sell tough, general purpose black (opaque) plastic storage containers for a very reasonable price. These are usually tapered so that they can be nested to facilitate stacking on the retailer’s shelves and come with a “snap-fit”ce lid. For your worm farm, you will need three of these tapered containers (but only one lid). For a simple home worm farm I would advise going for 12 gallon (45 litre) containers. Typically, they will be about 15 inches deep (400mm). You can go smaller, if you want.
• In the first storage container, drill a 3/8 inch (15mm hole), centrally placed, in the side of the bin, just above the base. Insert a ½ inch (12mm) cheap plastic barrel or irrigation tap (with washers) into your hole and tighten fast with lock nuts – make sure you get a good seal – test by filling the container with tap water. This container is to be the lowest one in your stack and will retain the highly nutritional “worm tea” leachate, that will start dripping down from the composting bins above. Worm tea is a valuable liquid organic fertilizer, that can be diluted and used directly on your organic vegetables.

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The two upper bins will actually hold the worms. They are to be identical and are prepared as follows : -

• Drill a pattern of ¼ inch (6mm) holes across the entire base of each container for drainage and to allow drainage and the upward migration of the compost worms, these holes should be regularly spaced at approx two inch (50mm) centres in either direction.
• For aeration, drill two rows of ¼ inch (6mm) holes at two inch (50mm) centres, in a continuous band around each of the bins. This band of holes would be about four inches (100mm) below the top rim of the bin.
• It is not essential to drill holes in the lid, which is closed tightly over the upper bin. as you should get enough air through the sides.
• You first set up the lower (sump) bin on bricks or blocks, allowing enough space to tap off the fluid from beneath it. Choose a shady location for the worm farm (in a shed or garage, if you are subject to frosts).
• The second and third bins are “nested” within each other and dropped into the sump bin. To maintain a working space for the worms, and for accumulation of compost, you need a few spacers or packers of about six to eight inches height, between the two upper bins and some smaller packers of about four inches in the lower (sump) bin. You can use wood blocks or sealed food jars for packers. The packers also prevent the tapered worm bins from jamming together.
• To prevent “nasty bugs” from squeezing in between the bins, you should close (caulk) the small gap between them with strips of shade cloth, or mosquito netting.

Now you are ready to go into production. Space prevents us from giving fully detailed notes here for the fine points of operating the system, such as choosing and feeding your worms, eradicating pests and maintaining the worm farm etc – you can visit our website for this information. However, just make sure that you cover the following points: -

• Set up your worms in the top bin with a good (damp) fibrous bedding (or even shredded newspaper) and after a few days you will be ready to start feeding in your kitchen scraps. Cover the food with more bedding material to discourage pests and keep the lid closed.
• Make sure the worm farm is never allowed to dry out, by sprinkling water over the bedding periodically, if there is not already enough moisture coming from the food scraps.
• When the top bin has been fully productive for a while, the worms will multiply and compost will be start accumulating from the worm castings. When the quantity of compost is meaningful, stop putting feed into this bin and swap over the upper two bins by putting bin No 2 to the top of the stack, with bin No 1 now in the middle. Set up this new top bin with clean bedding, a small amount of the old castings and immediately start feeding your kitchen scraps into it. The worms will naturally migrate upwards towards the new food source, leaving the lower bin with only a few stragglers and ready for the harvesting of your compost within about three weeks after the swap.
• All you need to do is to keep repeating the process of alternating the top two bins on a regular basis, taking out the compost, whenever it accumulates, and tapping off the worm tea from time to time. Use both products in your garden and grow delicious fully organic vegetables and stunning roses. Sit back and enjoy the fruit of your labours – your worms are doing most of the work anyway!

To see a detailed diagram of this simple worm farm, as described, and some illustrative photos, you can visit our web site at http://www.working-worms.com/

Happy worming!

DIY Vermicomposting – A Worm Farm on a Budget

Ant Coe has a degree from the University of Cape Town, South Africa and is passionate about promoting the use of cheap solutions, for the various problems facing poor communities in Africa. DIY worm farming or vermiculture is one such proposal. Few poor African communities can afford the high cost of commercial fertilizer and worm compost is an excellent source of free organic enrichment for school and village gardens. Visit his website at http://www.working-worms.com/ for further information.

Traditional doctor-prescribed treatments include the use of topically applied insecticides which many consider to be harmful-particularly for children and pregnant women. Some have been associated with life threatening conditions including leukemias and diseases of the nervous system. It is no wonder therefore that increasing numbers of people are looking for natural ways to deal with this common problem.

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Scabies are caused by a burrowing mite called Sarcoptes Scabiei. It is very easy for scabies to be passed on by wither direct contact with an infected person or by coming into contact with clothing or bedding etc which has been used by a sufferer. Once on the skin, the female mite burrows down and lays its’ eggs. After 21 days, the eggs hatch and the emerge onto the surface of the skin. They will either make new burrows and the whole process starts again, or they will be unknowingly passed on to another person.

Scabies can burrow into any part of the body, but symptoms and signs are most likely to be noticed around the creases of the wrists, elbows and knees, between the fingers and toes, in the armpits, around the breasts or near the waist and groin.

Knowing how to kill scabies naturally is particularly useful if you are one of the many thousands of people who are concerned about the use of prescribed treatments. One very good home treatment for scabies involves the use of tea tree oil.

Over the last few years, tea tree oil has often been called the “wonder oil” due to its antibacterial, antiseptic and healing properties. For scabies, simply half-fill a bath with warm water and add around 20 drops of tea tree oil and soak in it for around 20 minutes, ensuring that all but the head is submerged. You can repeat this up to twice a day for around a week and this can kill scabies. It can also be very beneficial to directly treat the worse affected areas with a cotton wool pad which has been soaked in a solution of 50% tea tree oil to 50% warm water. This will not only soothe and help heal these ravaged areas but can soak through the skin to kill the parasites.

It is also important to kill scabies which are outside the body on clothing, in bedding or on hairbrushes and even on children’s soft toys. Towels and bedding should be regularly changed and laundered. Indeed, all fabrics should be washed at the hottest possible temperature and tumble dried. Soft toys should be washed wherever possible. If not, consider putting them in a sealed plastic bag in the deep-freeze.

Although dietary changes will not necessarily kill scabies off completely, there are certain foods which will undoubtedly help. Some will simply boost and support the immune system, whereas other foods are well-known for their anti-parasitic properties. For example, garlic is well known for having both anti-parasitic and anti-bacterial properties and can be taken in either supplements or through the diet. Supplements which can be useful include Vitamin A, Primrose Oil, Zinc and Vitamin E.

How to Kill Scabies Naturally – Home Treatment For Scabies

Scabies is an unpleasant condition-not only in terms of the symptoms it presents but also the thought of having something actually living beneath the skin is unpalatable. Fortunately there is a completely guaranteed Home Treatment For Scabies You will find extensive information about this condition and how to kill scabies naturally in just 24 hours.

Outgassing, aka offgassing, is a process in which a solid releases gas which occurs in enclosed environments such as offices and homes. This outgassing occurs in nature as well as within manufactured products. Solids can release gas for a number of different reasons. Some undergo physical changes which cause transformation from solid to gas, with the gas being released as an end result. Others may have trapped gases inside as a result of the way in which they were formed, in which case the gas will slowly vent over time.

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In the poly foam world, heat is a necessary component for the expansion process and that heat is generated by the interaction of certain chemicals which cause it to heat up internally. When the expanded poly foam core, aka “memory foam”, is sent to the curing floor, outgassing will occur during this cool down process.

So does that mean that latex foam outgases?

No! Whether blended latex or natural latex, no chemicals are used to create the heat needed for the expansion process to occur. Much like a waffle iron, the heat is generated by heating up the pincore tines that protrude into the mold where the liquid latex is being poured. The tines extend from the top of mold and from the bottom of mold and are heated externally by a thermal regulated Siemens control system. The latex mattress cores are then allowed to cure and cool down as they reach normal room temperature. Both the synthetic latex and the natural latex are inert and render NO harmful outgassing characteristics. This is simply a farce passed down from vendors trying to bad mouth blended latex in favor or the higher priced natural latex components.

There is a toxicity concern in relation to memory foam products. We’ve all seen the posts online about health issues related to the Tempur type visco beds and many of them are valid. Whether its actual offgassing or just the toxicity of the chemical composition, I don’t really know for sure. What I do know is that when the culprit (memory foam mattress) was removed, the health concerns went with it. These details are well documented online and within forums.

Now look at the construction of an air bed. What you find is not only air but tons of poly foams and memory foams layered over the air chambers. This scenario is not any better since there is foam both on top and on the bottom and of course, all around the edges as well. Basically air beds are about 50% poly foams and your face is directly over foam cushioning, not the air chambers.

So in conclusion, the best way to take the outgassing issue off the table is to purchase a latex foam mattress. Every type of spring mattress I have seen usually includes are large amount of poly foam or memory foam or both. So whether it’s blended or natural latex, there is no wrong choice here. Any type of latex mattress is better than the alternative.

Do Latex Foam Mattresses Outgas?

Ken Hightower is a mattress industry veteran and invites you learn more about the contents of this article at Latex Mattress Company

You may also like to learn more about Talalay Latex Mattresses.

But seriously, language is one of the first ways developmental growth in children is noticed by the general population. Mom and Dad and Grandma and Grandpa know this baby is the next Baseball Hall of Famer or Albert Einstein, but the cashier at the supermarket won’t know diddly squat about that adorable big blue eyed baby unless she can speak intelligently while strapped safely in the shopping cart.

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So how can one help promote language skills besides reciting the abc’s and Mary Had a Little Lamb and Twinkle Twinkle Little Star over and over again?

Starting with finger plays, action rhymes, and songs to sing, there will be numerous activities listed. Each will explain the multi purposes of and the age of the child for which the activity is intended. More will be added over time as they are found.

FOR MOTOR SKILLS WITH TODDLERS:

Start with clapping and tapping your hands and feet. Let your toddler mimic your actions.

Read the following rhyme, clapping and tapping when indicated:

I have two little hands that clap, clap, clap.

I have two little feet that tap, tap, tap.

Clap, clap, clap.

Tap, tap, tap.

Clap, clap, tap.

Encourage your child to SAY “Clap” and “Tap” as you say the rhyme.

FOR SELF-CONCEPT BODY AWARENESS WITH TODDLERS:

Sing the following song to the tune of “The Farmer In The Dell.”

Where are your piggy toes?

Where are your piggy toes?

Oh no, where have they gone,

(pull off socks)

I see your piggy toes.

Pulling off socks is one of the first skills a toddler learns. Sing this song while pulling off your child’s socks, then let your child pull them off by himself. Encourage your child to pull off the socks without any help while you sing the song.

SELF-CONCEPT AND MOTOR SKILLS FOR TODDLERS:

One of the most challenging things a toddler is learning is how to dress herself. Somehow it always seems the diapers come off easier than the shoes go on!

Encourage your child to practice motor skills and begin recognizing opposites by giving her a hat that fits easily on her head. Have her put the hat on and take it off, saying Hat on, hat off, hat on, hat off as she does.

SELF-CONCEPT AND BODY AWARENESS FOR TODDLERS:

Sing the following to the tune of “Are You Sleeping?”

Head and shoulders,

Head and shoulders.

Knees and toes,

Knees and toes.

Eyes and ears,

Eyes and ears.

Mouth and nose,

Mouth and nose.

Have your child touch each body part as it is sung, then repeat the song naming different parts of the body.

THINKING SKILLS FOR TODDLERS:

Recognizing that an object is still there though it can’t be seen is a significant milestone for toddlers. Play peek-a-boo often with your child, and play games where an object is hidden with a blanket, scarf or bandana, or inside another object.

MOTOR SKILLS FOR TODDLERS:

Recite the following rhyme with your toddler sitting on your knees. Move your knees and toddler up and down following the lyrics.

Marching, marching,

Up we go.

Marching marching,

Nice and slow.

Marching, marching,

Down, down, down.

Marching, marching,

Through the town.

Let your child stand and stretch up high and bend down low, or be lifted high or put down low as you recite the poem.

MOTOR SKILLS, LISTENING, AND EXERCISE FOR TODDLERS:

Large motor skills are needed in order to develop as well. Sing the following song to the tune of “The Farmer In The Dell” and let your child giggle and wiggle as you both do the movements to the song. Substitute different body parts and actions.

Shake your arms like this,

Shake your arms like this,

Clap your hands and turn around,

Shake your arms like this.

MOTOR & THINKING SKILLS, EXERCISE FOR TODDLERS AND ALL AGES:

This is a great one to do when you’re super busy, yet your child is demanding your attention. It is also a great activity to do for transition times such as after story time getting ready for lunch, after playtime getting ready to go to the store, and other difficult times when you just HAVE to do something else besides hold your toddler on your hip.

Recite the following actions, doing the motions slowly at first, then quickly. The kids will dissolve into peals of laughter and free you up to get a few things done.

Clap, clap, clap your hands as slowly as you can.

Clap, clap, clap your hands as quickly as you can.

Rub, rub, rub your hands as slowly as you can.

Rub, rub, rub your hands as quickly as you can.

Roll your hands…

Wiggle your fingers…(sometimes I wiggle my fingers accidentally on their ribs!)

Twiddle your thumbs…

Stomp your feet…

Wiggle your body…

Wiggle your eyebrows…

Slap your knees…

Blink your eyes…

ACTION AND LANGUAGE BUILDING POETRY FOR THE YOUNG CHILD:

Poetry is a clearly delightful way to introduce children to new words and language skills. Here are a couple of poems that have not only lots of fun words to learn, but to act upon, too!

JUMP OR JIGGLE

Frogs jump

Caterpillars hump

Worms wiggle

Bugs jiggle

Rabbits hop

Horses clop

Snakes slide

Seagulls glide

Mice creep

Deer leap

Puppies bounce

Kittens pounce

Lions stalk-

But-

I walk!

~~~by EVELYN BEYER~~~

WHISKY FRISKY

Whisky frisky,

Hipperty hop,

Up he goes

To the tree top!

Whirly, twirly,

Round and round,

Down he scampers

To the ground.

Furly, curly,

What a tail,

Tall as a feather,

Broad as a sail.

Where’s his supper?

In the shell.

Snappy, cracky,

Out it fell.

ANON

THINKING SKILLS AND SELF-CONCEPT BODY AWARENESS FOR TODDLERS:

Counting repetitively to two with a toddler gives him a boost in premath skills. Have your child point to his ears, eyes, hands, feet, legs, knees, cheeks, elbows, thumbs, big toes, or heels, and count each one with him: One, two, one, two, one, two…Progress to 5 fingers or toes.

FUN HUGGING CUDDLING GIGGLY TIME WITH YOUR TODDLER OR CHILD OF ANY AGE:

The following rhyme is a favorite with kids of all ages.

Round and round the garden runs the little mouse. (Hold your child’s hand palm up, running your finger in circles very lightly on his palm.)

Up, up, up he scampers, (Touch your child’s arm on wrist, inside of elbow, and upper arm on each “up”.)

Into his little HOUSE! (Tickle your child’s underarm on HOUSE!) This is almost guaranteed to be a favorite of both you and your child!

Fun TICKLY KNEE Activity:

All ages of my daycare kids have loved this over the years. Very simple for people who don’t memorize things well, it’s a great standby for just about any child! Just tickle the child’s knee above and to the outside of his knee while reciting the following, and be almost 100% guaranteed that squeals of delight will follow, along with constant begging for MORE, and DO IT AGAIN!

Tickly knee, tickly knee, if your laugh, you don’t love me! (That’s it! See, I told you it was simple!)

FUN SEASONAL FINGERPLAYS AND ACTIVITIES:

Tune-The Mulberry Bush

Jumping in the pumpkin patch, (jumping through the whole verse)

Pumpkin patch, pumpkin patch,

Jumping in the pumpkin patch,

So early in the morning.

**Substitute clapping, stomping, flying, swaying, winking, etc.

SIMON SAYS FOR HALLOWEEN:

1. Fly like a bat.

2. Stomp like a monster.

3. Walk like a skeleton.

4. Hop like a bunny.

5. Pounce like a cat.

6. Dance like a ballerina.

7. Roll like a pumpkin…

COUNTING FIVE LITTLE PUMPKINS:

Five little pumpkins sitting on a gate.

One fell down and broke his plate.

Four little pumpkins sitting on a gate.

One fell down and lost his skate.

Three little pumpkins sitting on a gate.

One fell down and lost some weight.

Two little pumpkins sitting on a gate.

One fell down and said “Don’t be late!”

The littlest pumpking sitting on a gate

Fell down and said, “No more pumpkins sitting on the gate!”

FIVE LITTLE OWLS:

The first little owl has great, round eyes. (Point to one finger at a time.)

The second little owl is of very small size.

The third little owl can turn her head.

The fourth little owl likes mice, she said.

The fifth little owl flies all around,

And her wings make hardly a single sound.

FOUR SEASONS POEM:

Spring is showery, bowery, flowery.

Summer is hoppy, choppy, poppy.

Autumn is wheezy, sneezy, freezy.

Winter is slippy, drippy, nippy.

ANON

MUD poem:

Mud is very nice to feel

All squishy-squash between the toes!

I’d rather wade in wiggly mud

Than smell a yellow rose.

Nobody else but the rosebush knows

How nice mud feels between the toes.

by Polly Chase Boyden

Thunder Finger Play:

Thunder crashes. (Clap hands.)

Lightning flashes. (Move hands with zigzag motion.)

Rain makes puddles. (Flutter fingers.)

So I can make splashes. (Jump.)

Fun, new words, even if they’re not real, can be a great way to get a baby or toddler exposed to different sounds. The earlier a child is exposed to the sounds of different languages, the easier it will be for him to pick up on them and learn them more fluently. Here are some fun poems with silly words to share with your child:

The Cow Poem:

The cow mainly moos as she chooses to moo

and she chooses to moo as she chooses.

She furthermore chews as she chooses to chew

and she chooses to chew as she muses.

If she chooses to moo she may moo to amuse

or may moo just to moo as she chooses.

If she chooses to chew she may moo as she chews

or may chew just to chew as she muses.

by Jack Prelutsky

And a silly one for an older child, Eletelephony:

Once there was an elephant,

Who tried to use the telephant–

No! no! I mean an elephone

Who tried to use the telephone–

(Dear me! I am not certain quite

That even now I’ve got it right.)

Howe’er it was, he got his trunk

Entangled in the telephunk;

The more he tried to get it free,

The more buzzed the telephee–

(I fear I’d better drop the song

of elephop and telephong!)

Songs and fingerplays are so much fun, and are a great bonding activity between a child and her parents, grandparents, and other caregivers.

More songs, poetry, and fingerplays will be added to this guide over time as I run across them and as I myself have time. Thanks for looking, and be sure to mark this as one of your favorites for easy reference!

Songs, Finger Plays & Activities for Infants & Toddlers

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However, if you have a top load machine with tub capacity bigger than a front loader, then you can use it. But generally, a fair-sized front loader does the trick. So, to get this work out of the way, here are some of the steps in washing:

Comforter Down

Step 1: Remove comforter from your bed. You can wash this separately or include this with your pillowcases if there is still more room. Remember that if you want your washer to clean this efficiently, you should give it a lot of room to tumble.

Step 2: Normally, all fabrics have washing instructions sewn on one side of it. Check your brand of comforter if it comes with that instruction. You should see instructions like hand-washed or no bleach or sun dry. If you can be washed using a washing machine, then you can use your washer. Otherwise, you might only be allowed to use dry cleaning. In this case, you have to take your comforter to the dry cleaner.

Step 3: Slightly fluff the comforter up and then dump it in your washer. Make sure you have placed it evenly. Now program the machine to the right settings. Use warm washing settings to remove any dirt and stains in it. If there is machine washing recommendation in the tag attached to the comforter, follow it.

Step 4: Allow the machine to finish washing your comforter. After it is completely finished, you can now hang it outside to dry. You can also use your dryer but if it is an electric dryer, it might take forever to dry completely. You can also dry it for a few minutes in the washer’s dryer and take it out while it is still slightly damp and let the warmth of the sun finish the job for you.

All these steps are only applicable if your comforter is washer-safe. If you have a steam washer, you can use that to wash but if not, just go to your nearest dry cleaner and have it cleaned. Another option is to clean it manually. However, that would be too much work for a large comforter.

Can I Wash My King-Size Comforter in My Washing Machine?

For more creda washing machine reviews, tips and advice on choosing a washer and dryer for you and your family, please visit http://www.washingmachineadvisor.com now.